Day 1 Tuesday - Barnstaple to Newquay (train), Newquay to Gannel Estuary (3 miles)
What a lovely way to end my ranger experience - heading off past trees I now know the name of, to walk, camp, whittle, surf, and live a few days in the Great Outdoors.
Running for trains, sitting in carriages on my backpack, window open gazing at the blue sky - I haven't felt this sort of travelling mind for years. It's a very welcome change from van-life, being tied to the roads and car parks.
Saw a few dolphins along the coast at Dawlish Warren...
Made it to Newquay at 5pm and rushed out of the station heading for Fistral beach. From there I thought I'd make it up and round to Crantocks and start my walk into the wild in an hour or so. Unfortunately, and a problem encountered again at Hayle, I had an estuary to go round! And this meant a detour of a few miles...
As I walked along the estuary I spotted a path down closer to the water and then a nice green spot to set up camp. It was simple - I pitched my tent there, without a care in the world.
By 7pm my tent was up, I'd had my soup, and I was shattered and ready to sleep.
Day 2 Wednesday - Gannel Estuary - Cligga Head, nr Perranporth (10 - 12 miles)
Great sleep from 10-4 and then 4-7:30. Lots of wading birds in the estuary late into the night and early morning. Awoke to drizzle, clouds - time to set off.
Along the estuary spotted my first yellow wagtail which was beautiful. Also a little egret.
I'd only packed enough water for a day at a time, so made my way to Crantock village and bought some water, a coke, and a pasty for later.
On my way to Holywell I spotted 2 seals. Sitting on the beach having lunch - a soup - I watched a stoat chasing a rabbit around. I got the bins out to look at the stoat - it was CUTE!
By 1pm I'd been walking for about 4 hours. I didn't feel tired and I'd made it to Perran Sands. This section was meant to take me 2 days, but I'd TOTALLY underestimated how much distance I'd make. Coastal walking is notoriously slow, but not quite as slow as I'd thought. So I was well ahead of schedule. I dropped down onto the sands after watching a kestrel hover for what seemed like ages, and had a surf.
I don't like walking on beaches - the sand makes it really slow going, it's usually windy, and there's basically no (changing) view. This section of beach is 3 miles long!
Shattered, I made it to Perranporth, bought some bread and ham, and carried on up the cliffs looking for a place to camp for the night.
I passed a couple here who were making their way round the entire coast of the British Isles in their motorhome - driving to a spot, walking east and west, and then moving round the coast. I'd see them again at Chapel Porth the next day. They were lovely.
I was ready to camp anywhere. Having come to terms with most creepy crawlies in England at least, I wasn't scared of wild camping anymore. And the likelihood of being murdered by a serial killer on the coast path didn't really cross my mind. I walked for an hour or so and then some orange-tipped grass seemed to wave at me. And I found my second camping spot on the edge of the cliffs. There's a real feeling of freedom at just being able to camp anywhere, and the more I did it, the more I enjoyed it.
Day 3 Thursday - Cligga Head - Porthtowan (9 miles)
Very quiet sleep and awoke to not a breath of wind. Misty and cannot see the sea, but can hear the waves crashing at Perranporth behind me.
Left camp spot at 8, lots of remains of mines along the way, a seal in the bay, and made it to St.Agnes by 10. Had a coffee and charged phone in the pub. St.Agnes was lovely!
Had a surf at the beach - shallow beach break but small. Nice old guy out catching lovely waves.
Left St.Agnes at 1pm and view from Tubby's Head was breathtaking with the mist hanging over the cliffs. Met motorhome couple again as I came down to Chapel Porth. Carried on round to Porthtowan to some amazing waves!
Had surf in white water - too big for me - then made my way up the coastal path on the way to Portreath. Met a guy who wished me well. I must have met about 30 people along the way who wished me well and most gave me 10 out of 10 for carrying a surfboard. Not sure why they were scoring me, but they did.
Muggy night. Sandy feet. No lighter, Sandwich for dinner.
Day 4 Friday - Porth Towan - Godrevy (12 miles)
Usual sleeping pattern. Another cloudy and misty day. Left camp spot at 8 and made it to Portreath for 10.
Had a coffee and cake at a nice cafe then stocked up on food and bought MATCHES!
No surf here so carried on...4 seals looking up at me in a bay round the corner. Lovely. Threw them some bread but they didn't like it.
In the distance I can see the lighthouse at Godrevy and behind that, St.Ives in the distance. Found a nice spot to chill and thought I'd spend the day chilling. Met a family who said they'd just walked from Godrevy - it's not that far (4 miles), they said. So I decided to carry on and hopefully get a surf before sunset at Gwithian.
Sun is finally out and it's beautiful. I set off around 1 and make it for 3 along the most stunning section so far...a seal colony with pups, kestrels, peregrine falcon (?), Shetland ponies...And then wonderful St.Ives Bay...in the sun!!!
Had a surf - small - whittled my fish. Wonderful.
Backtracked to camp at Godrevy. Strong winds and very difficult to find shelter. Tent flapping around all night. Noodles at sunset. Truly inspiring evening, though. Don't need much to feel truly alive!
Day 5 Saturday - Godrevy to St.Ives (10 miles)
Clear and cold night. Relieved it's morning and the wind has dropped. Up at 5. No phone battery so no idea what time is. Watched the moon rise from the east and rise overhead. Orion looked nice.
Surfed again at Gwithian. Seal out with us. 3ft peeling waves. Clear blue waters. LUSH.
Had coffee and cake at surf cafe. Had nice chat with owners. Surf picking up tomorrow...
Walk to Hayle nightmare - loooong 3 mile beach again, looong estuary to walk around. Had mushroom soup at organic cafe - delicious.
Left Hayle at 1 and reached St.Ives at 3.
Very sad to have reached my destination and for the adventure to be over...but also very happy to have made it! St. Ives is lush and a great ending place.
This adventure has been totally inspiring.
The End
Blogging, pictures, writing - nothing really captures it, at least not my blogging, pictures, and writing! It was 43 miles, 4 wild camps, lots of soup and noodles, a few cups of coffee in cafes, countless seals and birds, many friendly walkers, beautiful clear waters, lush surfs, stunning scenery, lots of hills, and many steps...
Loved it.
*I stayed in a backpackers' hotel on Saturday and my surf buddy picked me up the next morning. We had a surf at Porthmeor beach in St.Ives and as we surfed a seal popped out of the water next to us. On our way back to Woolacombe, we surfed at Fistral beach in Newquay. It took us about 30 minutes to do the journey from St.Ives to Newquay, the same journey that had taken me 4 days!
